What's the Difference Between a Woman and a Mango

.. not gonna say because Grandma reads this. Ask me if you want to know the CRUCIAL Arab joke.

Two days ago Kate, Kate's roommate Hannah, Leandro and I took the bus to Jerusalem. It's an incredibly strange city. It's not like this isn't the case almost everywhere in the Middle East, but Jerusalem is a particularly bizarre example of the old and the new, the Christian and the Arab, the Jews and the aforementioned, colliding. From one spot you can see the Dome of the Rock (where Muhammad ascended to heaven), the Western Wall, and then, if you turn 180 degrees, you can see where the Greek and Russian orthodox churches believe Christ was both crucified and then entombed, and then ascended to heaven. You're constantly surrounded by Hasidic Jews in full garb, crowds of Muslim men in robes, Jewish girls somehow completely erotic in their modesty (think calf-length skirts, fully buttoned oxfords, and Mary Janes). The landmarks are the gates built by ancient kings, and the rooftops are the spots where, several weeks earlier, crowds of Muslims and Jews met in a West-Side-Story-esque battle.

Needless to say, Yerusalayim is a strange place.

So, we got off the bus and made our way to the Tomb of King David, and then to the first holocaust memorial in Jerusalem, underneath a Yeshiva half a kilometer from the Western Wall. Leandro and ended up going and touring the Yeshiva, which was an experience in and of itself. I'm trying to say this delicately, but I'm unclear whether I can, so bear with me. The Jews that I've encountered here have been the most intolerant of the religions I've met. In passing, one of the head rabbis mentioned the Franciscan church, but not by name. He referred to them as "hamakshima". When I asked what that meant, he said "it means 'a curse on them'". Understandable when referring to Hitler, sure. The Franciscan church? Really?

Anyways, we finally escaped the Yeshiva and made our way the Western Wall. Another strange place-- crowds of men and women facing the wall, stuffing prayers into the cracks, reading scripture while chanting under their breath while doing small bows. And then, when they finish, they don't turn their backs on the wall-- they back up until they feel comfortable, and then they turn.

We found our way to the hostel, which I guess was only for Jews. Therefore, in theory, only Leandro could stay there, but I lied and said I was Jewish. Part of me felt bad for lying, but at the same time, I think it's kind of an intolerant rule to say that only Jews can stay at your guest house.

Had a beer with a guy I met on CS named Ofer, then made our way back to the hostel and went to bed.

The next morning, Leandro and I went to the Dome of the Rock, but couldn't get into the sanctuary itself because we clearly weren't Muslim. Then, to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial. Yad Vashem was really moving-- it's set up like a long tunnel, with rooms on either side, that go from the beginning of Jewish intolerance all the way to the establishment of Israel. Hundreds of screens scattered throughout showing videos of survivors telling their stories.

When we got finished, we came back to the hostel, where one of the rabbis gave Leandro and I a personal tour of the Old City. To me, this was the most interesting part of the tour. He showed us the "Jew Doors", or disguised multi-layered steel doors that the Jews use as front doors so that the Arabs don't vandalize their homes, as well as the lockboxes that the Jews have to put their menorahs in on Hannukah so they don't get taken. Most interesting to me was when he took us up onto a particular section of roof.

"Here's where the Armenian, Christian, Arab, and Jewish quarters meet. This is where we brawl with the Arabs. Sometimes the Christians fight, but who really cares about them? Down there (pointing at the street) is where riots occur a couple of times a month, with the intention of pushing the Jews out of their quarter. Over there's a conservative Yeshiva. There's always a guard heavily armed on duty. It's a little safer than it used to be, but all the kids have to go to the playground with armed guards. You know how in the states it's illegal to bring a gun to a playground? Here, afterschool is basically an arms show."

Obviously, the tour was pro-Jewish. And I'm not sure how much of it was factual, and how much of it was propaganda, but it was still pretty fascinating to see firsthand the dynamic within the city.

Finally made it to the bus station after searching the hostel and the shops for something I bought for Dad and then thought I lost. Made it back to the apartment, slept.

The next day, spent most of the day at the beach. I was tired after walking so much the past two days. Played in the surf, thinking about when I used to go to Hawaii as a kid and pretend that the waves were monsters that I had to fight.

Was supposed to go to a rooftop party that night,but one of the roommates got too drunk and ended up getting really sick. Got back to Ramla with Leandro and spent the night there, even though Leandro and his group were all going to the Dead Sea, but I couldn't afford the 100$/day price tag for the trip. Took my hungover self back to Kate's apartment and read for most of the day (Kafka on the Shore by Haruki Murakami).

Tomorrow I'm actually going to the Dead Sea, and a nature reserve near it named Ein Gedi. Kind of running out of money, which is prohibiting me from doing more extensive travel, but then again, I leave in two days, so I can't do anything that extensive anyways. Oh well.